Here is a selection of ingredients to help you make as many recipes as possible. There's no point investing in a whole host of raw materials. You run the risk of getting lost, causing harmful interactions and simply wasting ingredients that are perishable. It's important to remember that the same ingredient can fulfil several functions and therefore be used in several recipes. A bit like in the kitchen, where flour is not just used to make pancakes... A short formula also means you can make a more economical product and minimise the risk of allergies.
1- Essential oils (according to skin type)
It's no scoop: essential oils have very interesting properties for the skin. In your cosmetic preparations, they can be used both as powerful active ingredients and as a natural fragrance. Home cosmetics are above all a pleasure, so choose your essential oils according to their intrinsic properties, but also according to the scents you like.
Helichrysum / Immortella (Helichrysum italicum)
- Indication: skin
- Skin types:
- mature skin
- skin with redness
- rosacea
- Properties:
- healing
- activates circulation
- regenerating
- anti-ageing
- For which products:
- Face cream for mature skin
- Stretch mark oil
- Anti-redness lotion
- Light legs gel
- Healing ointment
Tip: 1 drop of Helichrysum essential oil in aloe vera gel or linseed gel to reduce acne scars.
Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)
- Indications:
- skin
- hair
- Skin types:
- sensitive
- reactive and/or irritated
- Properties:
- soothing
- anti-allergic
- anti-inflammatory
- For which products:
- Facial cream for sensitive skin
- Soothing anti-itch ointment
- After-sun gel
- Soothing lip balm
Tip: 5 drops in your face cream to relieve itching.
Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)
- Indications:
- skin
- hair
- teeth
- Skin type:
- combination to oily skin
- blemished skin
- Properties:
- antibacterial
- antifungal
- purifying
- For which products:
- Facial gel
- Purifying face mask
- Anti-stain roll-on
- Cleansing serum
- Purifying shampoo
Tip: 2 drops of tea tree essential oil in a bowl of hot water for a purifying facial sauna.
Geranium (Pelargonium x asperum)
- Indication: skin
- Skin types: all
- Properties:
- skin tonic
- astringent
- haemostatic (stops bleeding)
- antibacterial
- healing
- repairing
- For which products:
- Purifying face mask
- Toning lotion
- After-shave gel
- Brightening face cream
- Cleansing gel
Tip: 1 drop of geranium essential oil in a clay mask to purify and close pores.
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii)
- Indication:
- skin
- hair
- Skin type:
- skin with imperfections
- mature skin
- Properties:
- antibacterial
- antifungal
- regulates perspiration
- skin tonic
- For which products:
- Anti-perspirant deodorant
- Cleansing gel for the face
- Purifying foot gel
- Anti-ageing cream
Tip: 1 drop in a little aloe vera gel or flaxseed gel as a deodorant. Use as a troubleshooter, not on a daily basis, as the concentration of essential oil is high.
- Indications:
- skin
- hair
- Skin and hair types:
- fragile hair
- fine hair with no volume
- dull hair
- dull skin
- Properties:
- hair and skin tonic
- fragrance
- For which products:
- Revitalising shampoo
- Solid perfume
- Aphrodisiac massage oil
- Anti-hair loss hair lotion
- Deodorant
Tip: 1 drop of Ylang-ylang in a neutral shampoo or mask base to promote hair growth and shine.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
- Indications:
- skin
- hair
- Skin type:
- oily skin with imperfections
- mature skin
- atopic skin
- Properties:
- purifying
- skin toner
- anti-wrinkle
- skin healing and regenerating
- hair tonic
- For which products:
- Deodorant for men
- Purifying gel for clean skin
- Anti-ageing serum
- Anti-hair loss hair lotion
Tip: massage 1 drop of rosemary verbenone into a dry oil (hazelnut oil, for example) to reduce stretch marks.
Fine lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
- Indications:
- skin
- hair
- Skin type:
- skin with imperfections
- irritated skin
- normal skin
- Properties:
- healing
- soothing
- purifying
- repairing
- For which products:
- Facial cleansing gel
- After-sun body oil
- Face cream for all skin types
- After-shave gel
- Relaxing massage oil
- Anti-lice shampoo
Tip: 1 drop of fine lavender essential oil in a little aloe vera gel to soothe sunburn or shaving burns.
- Indications:
- skin
- hair
- teeth
- Properties:
- antibacterial
- antifungal
- regulates perspiration
- skin tonic
- For which products:
- Antibacterial
- Soothing
- Refreshing
- Firming
- Plumping
Tip: 1 drop in aloe vera gel or linseed gel for a fresh, light gel for the legs.
Warning: the use of this essential oil is strictly prohibited for pregnant and breastfeeding women, children under 6 and people suffering from epilepsy. Do not use for prolonged periods without medical advice.
- Indications:
- skin
- hair
- teeth
- Skin type:
- skin with imperfections
- mature skin
- Properties:
- antibacterial
- antiseptic
- activates circulation
- For which products:
- Deodorant
- Whitening toothpaste
- Fresh cleansing gel
- Draining massage oil
- Nail strengthening oil
Tip: 1 drop of lemon essential oil on your toothbrush, along with your toothpaste, once a week to whiten your teeth.
Warning: this essential oil is photosensitising, so don't apply it before sun exposure.
Precautions when using essential oils
Not all essential oils can be used on the skin. Some cause burns and can be very irritating. As a general rule, it is advisable to dilute essential oils before using them on the skin to avoid skin reactions. Avoid applying them to mucous membranes, eyes or ears:
- Citrus essential oils are photosensitising, so avoid exposure to the sun for 6 hours after application.
- As a precaution, check each essential oil here, some should be avoided by pregnant or breastfeeding women, frail people or children under 6 years old.
What concentrations?
- Face: 0.5% for creams, lotions and other everyday products. 1% for a more targeted action.
- Body: 1 to 2 %
- Hair: 1 to 2%
Note: 1 g of essential oil is equivalent to around twenty drops (this may vary depending on the dropper and the brand).
Here are some guidelines to help you find the right dose:
- For a 50 g bottle of face cream: 5 drops
- For a 30 ml bottle of face serum: 7 drops
- For 100 ml of body lotion: 40 drops
- For 200 ml of shampoo: 80 drops
- In a clay face mask: 1 drop
How do you solubilise essential oils?
Essential oils are insoluble in water, so they will not mix with your aqueous products (those containing a water or hydrolate base) and will remain on the surface of your lotions. To make them completely soluble, you'll need to pre-dilute them in a dispersant such as solubol.
On the other hand, essential oils have no problem solubilising in vegetable oils, butters and all products containing an oily phase. They also disperse very well in foaming products thanks to the presence of surfactants, cleansing agents that promote their dispersion.
Finding the right combinations for the right fragrance
Essential oils naturally scent cosmetic products, so use your nose to find the right combination! In general, top, middle and base notes are combined to create a unique, long-lasting fragrance.
- Top notes: these are the most volatile notes, the ones you smell first and then easily fade away.
- Lemon, peppermint, grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, sweet orange, lemongrass.
- Heart notes: these represent the balance of the fragrance, and are the ones you perceive in the second stage.
- Fine lavender, rosemary verbenone, palmarosa, geranium, Roman chamomile.
- Base notes: these are the notes you smell last, the most powerful ones, so don't be too heavy-handed! They act as fixers for the other essential oils.
- Ylang-Ylang, vetiver, cedar, incense, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin.
5 examples of combinations that create a balanced fragrance
- Lavender + Geranium
- Lemon + Peppermint + Rosemary verbenone
- Palmarosa + Geranium
- Lemon + Palmarosa + Ylang-ylang
- Lavender + Lemon + Palmarosa
2- Vegetable oils and butters (according to skin type)
Vegetable oils and butters are treasures for the skin. Rich in fatty acids, vitamins and antioxidants, they protect, soften, regenerate and soothe the skin. They can also be used as vectors for other active ingredients such as essential oils.
How to use oils in cosmetology
- Pure: as a massage, facial serum, dry body oil or make-up remover.
- Blended with other plant oils: oils can be combined to combine different properties.
- In the fat phase: to make creams or milks, or as the main ingredient in balms.
- Skin type:
- dry skin
- normal skin
- make-up removal
- Type of hair:
- dry hair
- brittle hair
- fine hair
- porous hair
- sun damaged hair
- Properties:
- hair tonic
- promotes shine
- antibacterial
- nourishing
- softening
- fragrance
Benefits: like mother's milk, coconut oil contains lauric acid, which is transformed into monolaurin in the body and has antimicrobial properties. It's the plant oil of choice for porous and damaged hair, and can be used as an oil bath before shampooing. It's also recommended for combating head lice, which it eliminates naturally. Like monoï, which is simply a macerate of tiare flowers in coconut oil, it is ideal for making the skin sublimely supple in summer.
Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao)
- Skin type:
- chapped lips
- dry skin
- cellulite
- mature skin
- Type of hair:
- very dry hair
- Properties:
- nourishing
- film-forming (leaves a protective film on the surface of the skin)
- slimming (helps burn fat)
Benefits: cocoa butter contains theobromine, which has a lipolytic action and helps to burn fat. It is ideal for use in firming and anti-cellulite products. Naturally solid, it is rarely used pure, but rather combined with other oils. To make body butters, for example, melt up to 80% cocoa butter with another liquid oil. It's also the star ingredient in lip balms, as its film-forming action is very beneficial on lips that naturally lack a protective film.
Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii)
- Skin type:
- dry skin
- skin of pregnant women
- stretch marks
- chapped skin
- Type of hair:
- dry hair
- brittle hair
- frizzy hair
- curly hair
- Properties:
- anti-inflammatory
- promotes elasticity
- antioxidant
- highly film-forming and therefore protective
- healing
- sun protection
Benefits: it comes from far away but remains unequalled in many respects. Its solid form makes it easy to create balms or solid cosmetics. It can be used hot or cold, or even pure on the skin and hair. It's one of the active ingredients most commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient (softening), protective and soothing properties. It is best used raw, i.e. unmodified and unrefined. It will then retain all its precious active ingredients, as well as its many properties.
Natural fats to protect skin from the sun
Some fats protect the skin from UV rays, and this is particularly true of shea butter due to its high concentration of unsaponifiable compounds such as karitene. Unsaponifiables are so called because they are molecules that cannot be transformed into soap during the saponification reaction. They include vitamins, minerals, polyphenols (tannins) and alcohols. These unsaponifiables are real active ingredients for the skin. Vitamin A, for example, helps to regenerate cells after exposure to the sun. Other oils such as avocado or karanja have a similar effect. Of course, these properties are not comparable to those of SPF sun creams, which are still essential. I'd like to take this opportunity to remind you that exposure to the sun should always be moderate.
Sweet almond oil (Prunus amygdalus)
- Skin type:
- sensitive skin
- dry skin
- irritated skin
- baby skin
- Type of hair:
- dry hair
- Properties:
- softening
- anti-inflammatory
Benefits: Sweet almond oil will come to the rescue of pregnant women and babies thanks to its extreme gentleness and repairing action. It is the cosmetic of choice for preventing stretch marks and softening the skin. It can be massaged in to help reconstitute the skin's hydrolipidic film.
Carrot (Daucus carota) macerate
- Skin type:
- dull skin
- mature skin
- Properties:
- natural self-tanner
- prepares skin for sun exposure
- antioxidant
Benefits: a truly natural self-tanning treatment. Rich in beta-carotene, a precursor of vitamin A, it promotes tanning and a tanned complexion by activating the production of melanin. Its antioxidant properties also make it an excellent after-sun and anti-ageing treatment.
Good to know: carrot macerate is obtained by macerating carrots in a neutral vegetable oil (sunflower, olive or sweet almond).
- Skin type:
- dry skin
- mature skin
- sensitive skin
- Type of hair:
- dry hair
- brittle hair
- Properties:
- emollient
- healing
- anti-inflammatory
- nourishing
Benefits: A good anti-ageing oil with antioxidant properties, particularly useful for mature skin. Anti-inflammatory and healing, it will also be useful for sensitive, fragile and reddened skin. Highly emollient (softening) and repairing, it is ideal for dry skin with an atopic tendency, as well as for damaged and brittle hair. It's also an essential ingredient for making liniment for baby's bottom.
Borage oil (Borago officinalis)
- Skin type:
- mature skin
- dry skin
- dehydrated skin
- Properties:
- anti-ageing
- promotes elasticity
- regenerating
Benefits: borage oil is one of the richest in gamma linoleic acid, a precious fatty acid that promotes skin elasticity and limits dehydration.
Black cumin oil (Nigella sativa)
- Skin type:
- skin with imperfections
- mature skin
- atopic and irritated skin
- Type of hair:
- irritated scalp
- greasy hair
- hair loss
- Properties:
- antioxidant
- healing
- purifying
- anti-inflammatory
Benefits: this is an oil with 1001 virtues, a real SOS treatment for various skin problems. Black cumin oil naturally contains a small amount of essential oil, making it particularly purifying and effective for acne-prone skin. Its healing and anti-inflammatory properties will be sought after by damaged skin (eczema, psoriasis, etc.). Studies have shown that it has antihistaminic activity, meaning that it reduces allergy symptoms when used orally.
Hazelnut oil (Corylus avellana)
- Skin type:
- combination to oily skin
- skin with imperfections
- normal skin
- Properties:
- softening
- regulates sebum secretion
- protective
Benefits: it's a non-greasy oil, very fine and penetrating. It can be used as a base for blending essential oils. It's also a good dry body oil for getting dressed immediately after application. Finally, it is an effective make-up remover, especially for waterproof mascara.
Let's dispel two common misconceptions
No, oils and butters don't moisturise!
By definition, fats are not watery, so they cannot moisturise the skin. In fact, the body is hydrated from the inside by what we eat and drink. However, they do prevent dehydration. The body loses water constantly, particularly through the skin barrier, a process known as "insensible water loss". When the skin is damaged, this phenomenon can be more significant, which is why the use of a fatty substance is of interest. By protecting the skin and reinforcing the hydrolipidic film, vegetable oils limit this dehydration.
Vegetable oils are not comedogenic!
Unlike silicones and mineral oils, vegetable oils have little or no occlusive effect. In fact, oils and waxes derived from petrochemicals, such as liquid paraffin, leave a watertight film on the surface of the skin to protect it and maintain surface hydration. The downside is that this film tends to clog the skin's pores, so sebum doesn't drain properly and blackheads are the result. Although some plant oils have a richer finish than others, these will not be comedogenic. Oils don't make skin oily as long as they're chosen according to skin type. For example, if you have oily skin, it's best to avoid using coconut or wheat germ oil and opt for hazelnut, jojoba or hemp instead.
3- Hydrolats (according to skin type)
Like essential oils, they are obtained by distilling plants or parts of plants. It is the aqueous phase of the distillation process that concentrates the water-soluble molecules. It also contains a small proportion of aromatic molecules, but much less than in essential oils. The composition of these molecules is therefore different from that of an essential oil, which is why their fragrances will also be different.
Note: hydrolats are not a simple infusion of plants, still less water flavoured with essential oils. There are no citrus hydrolats because they are not distilled.
Use: milder than essential oils, they require no special precautions and can be used by anyone. They have an acidic pH, making them excellent skin toners. They can also be used to remove make-up or cleanse the skin. They can replace all or part of the water in cosmetics. They are used pure and do not need to be rinsed off. They are soluble in water or miscible with other aqueous substances. By definition, they will not mix with oil or other fats. It is preferable to avoid heating them in order to preserve the active molecules.
Which products to buy: choose hydrolats that are 100% pure and natural, i.e. not cut with water or alcohol and without preservatives. Hydrolats cut with water are inevitably less effective than pure hydrolats, but they are also more exposed to bacterial contamination, which is why manufacturers sometimes add a little alcohol (which dries out the skin) and even a preservative. Hydrolats must be grade 1, which means that 1 kilo of plants must be distilled to obtain 1 litre.
Fine lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
- Skin type:
- normal skin
- combination to oily skin
- fragile skin
- irritated skin
- Properties:
- purifying
- soothing
- healing
- cleansing and make-up remover
Tip: slip your fine lavender hydrosol into your travel bag, it will come to the rescue of your sunburns, insect bites and other minor injuries such as cuts.
- Skin type:
- mature skin
- dull skin
- normal skin
- Properties:
- astringent
- anti-ageing
- skin tonic
- fragrance
Tip: if you like baking, Damask rose hydrosol is a natural flavouring for cakes, whipped cream and red fruit salads. Add a tablespoon to your preparation (or more if you want a stronger flavour).
Laurel (Laurus nobilis)
- Skin type:
- skin with imperfections
- combination to oily skin
- oral mucosa
- Type of hair:
- oily hair
- hair with dandruff
- Properties:
- purifying
- broad-spectrum anti-infectives
- good cleanser
- astringent (tightens pores)
- hair tonic
Tip: make a purifying mask by mixing green clay with laurel hydrosol. Leave on for a few minutes without drying, then rinse with clean water.
Note: Laurel hydrosol is a very good alternative to Tea tree hydrosol, which originates from the other side of the world. In recent years, there has been a major craze for this plant, which comes all the way from Australia. Tea tree has the same antiseptic properties as laurel, but when it comes to carbon footprint, you'll have to think again! So we prefer laurel, which is more local and has purifying properties that are no match for its Australian cousin.
Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)
- Skin type:
- fragile skin
- allergic skin
- irritated skin
- acne rosacea
- baby skin
- Type of hair:
- blonde hair (lightening)
- Properties:
- soothing
- healing
- anti-inflammatory
Tip: chamomile hydrosol soothes babies' diaper rash. It can be sprayed on the bottom or diluted in the bath water. It will also soothe your little one before bedtime.
- Skin type:
- irritated skin
- sunburn
- oily and acne-prone skin
- oral mucosa
- Properties:
- soothing
- toning
- refreshing
- purifying
- circulatory
Tip: in summer, peppermint hydrosol relieves heavy legs and can be used as a deodorant and refresher in hot weather.
Bamboo (Bambusa vulgaris)
- Skin type:
- combination to oily skin
- Hair type:
- porous hair
- devitalized hair
- fine hair
- hair loss
- Properties:
- remineralising
- mattifying
- gives the skin a soft touch
- hair tonic
Tip: spray bamboo hydrosol on wet hair after each shampoo and leave to dry without rinsing. It redensifies hair, promoting volume, growth and shine. Very rich in silica, it also makes a great make-up base for the complexion. Naturally mattifying, it absorbs excess sebum and 'blurs' imperfections.
Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum)
- Skin type:
- mature skin
- sensitive skin
- rosacea
- haematoma
- skin with redness
- dark circles
- Properties:
- skin tonic
- regenerating
- circulatory
- healing
- soothing
Tip: make a "two-phase" anti-dark circle rol-on by mixing equal parts helichrysum hydrolate and circulatory calophyllum vegetable oil. You'll be able to say bye-bye to those nasty bluish dark circles!
- Skin type:
- sensitive skin
- dry skin
- mature skin
- tired and sensitive eyes
- Properties:
- soothing
- eye decongestant
- revitalising
- toning for mature and delicate skin
Tip: soak compresses or washable cotton pads in fresh cornflower hydrosol, then place them for a few minutes on your screen-weary eyes.
4- Beehive products
Beehive products are an essential part of home cosmetics. They have many properties: healing, antiseptic, antioxidant... The list goes on! Give preference to honeys and waxes produced in the traditional way. You're bound to have a small beekeeper near you! You'll be sure of the quality and benefits they provide. Beware of products from China, which are unfortunately not always pure and whose production and rearing methods are not the best.
Beeswax
Properties: film-forming (protective), anti-inflammatory, healing, softening.
Use: it is used as a texturising and hardening agent in balms, sticks and emulsions. It is an ingredient in Galen's cerat, an ointment listed in the French pharmacopoeia, which is used in dermatology as an excipient for various medicinal substances and as a base for cosmetics. It can be mixed with butters or oils to thicken them or make them solid. It can be added to an emulsion recipe to stabilise it or make the product more protective. Wax melts at around 65ºC and is not miscible with water, but will mix with oils.
Properties: antiseptic, healing, softening.
Use: a real treasure for the skin, honey contains numerous molecules that contribute to skin health: vitamins, minerals, trace elements, aromatic substances and antibiotic compounds. Pure honey contains around 17% water and 80% sugars, so it doesn't mix with fats or oils, but rather with water-based products. It can be added to a balm or butter. Simply stir well while the product is cooling, and it will disperse properly without sinking to the bottom.
Properties: antibacterial, healing, regenerating, antioxidant, anti-ageing. Propolis is one of the hive's protective elements. It is the bees' "putty", used to seal breaches, consolidate the structure and scent out intruders who dare to venture in. But it doesn't stop there: it also acts as a real barrier against bacteria and viruses that could threaten the community. It is made from a mixture of resin from tree buds, salivary secretions from bees and a little wax.
Use: in cosmetics, oily skin with imperfections appreciates it for its purifying and healing properties, and mature skin for its regenerating and antioxidant properties (to fight free radicals).
5- Starches
We're talking about arrowroot, rice powder and corn starch, magic powders that you may already have in your kitchen cupboards. They are used as the basis for many cosmetic products.
Uses:
- Make-up base in loose powders and blushes
- Matifying agent in creams
- Absorbent agent to reduce the greasy effect of balms
- Softening agent
- Dry shampoo base to absorb excess sebum
Arrowroot is a starch produced from the rhizomes of the arrowroot plant, native to Central and South America. It owes its name "arrowroot" to the Amerindians who used it to absorb the poison from arrows. It's a highly absorbent powder that's guaranteed to 'mat', but doesn't dry out in any way. It contains no gluten.
6- Clays
Properties: purifying, cleansing, colouring, detoxifying, depolluting, exfoliating.
Use: clays are a great classic in DIY cosmetics. They are essential ingredients in face masks. And why is that? Because they are both ABsorbent and ADsorbent.
Absorbent because, like sponges, clays absorb liquids such as water and sebum. This makes them easy to mix with water or hydrosols to create purifying masks. They are also excellent mattifying agents, absorbing excess sebum from combination to oily skin.
Adsorbent because clays are capable of retaining molecules on their surface: they bind impurities, but also toxins, helping to purify the epidermis. And that's not all, because clays are rather sharing, exchanging minerals and active ingredients. Their richness in minerals and trace elements gives them healing, anti-ageing and soothing properties. Gentle clay-based masks and scrubs remove dead skin and encourage cell regeneration. Say goodbye to a dull complexion!
Clays are also used as cleansers in toothpastes. Because they come from soft rock, they don't scratch the enamel.
Finally, they naturally colour cosmetics and can be used in make-up products.
Which clays for my skin?
- Green clay: purifying. Oily, acne-prone and blemish-prone skin.
- Yellow clay: exfoliating. Combination to oily skin, blotchy skin.
- Red clay: illuminating. Dull complexion, combination to oily skin, reactive skin.
- White clay: soothing. Dry and sensitive skin.
- Pink clay: a mix of red and white clay. Dull complexion, sensitive skin.
Tips: add a teaspoon of aloe vera gel to your homemade clay mask for extra softness!
Good to know:
- Never let a clay mask dry on your face! Once it's dry, the clay risks drawing water from your skin and drying it out. To remedy this problem, you can spray a little hydrosol on your mask.
- Clay that has already been used should not be re-used, as it contains the toxins and impurities removed from your skin.
7- Natural exfoliants
Why dump plastic into our oceans when nature offers us 100% natural exfoliants? Salts, sugars, olive kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, poppy seed powder... the list of effective products is long! Choose them according to the intensity you want your scrub to have, but also according to what you have on hand!
Exfoliating power: from the most to the least exfoliating
- Coarse salt
- Olive stone powder
- Sugar
- Fine salt
- Bicarbonate of soda
- Rhassoul
- Poppy seeds
- Almond powder
- Clays
Tip: mix some aloe vera gel with a pinch of exfoliating powder and you've got an instant exfoliating gel that can be used on the face and body!
Don't throw away your coffee grounds!
Collect the grounds from your daily coffee by placing them in a closed container in the fridge. After a week, you'll have collected enough powder to dry. The pomace must be completely dry before it can be stored (moisture will cause it to mould and contaminate your home-made cosmetics). In summer, spread it out in very thin layers on sheets and place in the sun. Leave to dry until completely dehydrated. In winter, put it in the oven at 100ºC for two hours.
8- Zinc oxide
Properties: it is a white powder of opacifying mineral origin, white pigment, antiseptic, mineral sunscreen.
Uses:
- Purifying in products for blemished skin
- Antiseptic and healing in baby changing creams
- UV filter in suncare products
- White colourant and opacifier in make-up products
9- Baking soda and calcium carbonate
These two powders are in fact quite different; they can both be used in homemade toothpastes, but will not have quite the same action.
Baking soda is made from limestone and salt. It is a natural, biodegradable ingredient. Sodium carbonate, also known as blanc de Meudon, is one of the compounds in chalk.
- Bicarbonate = deodorant, tooth whitener, mild abrasive, pH regulator
- Calcium carbonate = mild abrasive, thickener
Baking soda in your deodorant
Baking soda can also replace aluminium salts in deodorants. Bicarbonate is bacteriostatic, meaning it slows down the development of the bacteria that cause unpleasant odours.
10- A surfactant that foams: SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)
Properties: it is a foaming and cleansing surfactant.
Origin: derived from coconut oil.
Uses: it comes in powder form and can be used to make solid cosmetics (shampoo, shower bar, toothpaste, etc.). It is water-soluble and can be incorporated into your recipes at a maximum concentration of 60%. It is preferable to "cut" it with plant powders and vegetable butters to soften the product.
Precautions for use: in powder form, SCI is powdery and can irritate the respiratory tract. It is therefore necessary to wear a mask when handling it.
11- Vegetable glycerine
Properties: Glycerine is a humectant, which means it can retain water from the air, the skin or creams, helping to keep skin hydrated. Its ability to bind water limits water loss from the epidermis and prevents it from drying out. It also detangles and softens.
Origin: ah, good old glycerine! It's an ingredient found in many cosmetic products around the world. It can be obtained by saponifying vegetable oils and reacting them with sodium hydroxide. This is the chemical process that creates soap and at the same time produces our famous glycerine. You can also find glycerine obtained from animal fats, as well as synthetic glycerine derived from petrochemicals.
Uses: glycerine is used in body products, but also to help detangle hair. Colourless and odourless, it's a simple ingredient that's very useful in homemade cosmetic recipes. It dissolves in water or alcohol, but will not mix with oils.
Dosage: 2 to 8% maximum, beyond which the effect may be the opposite of that intended and glycerine may cause the skin to dry out. So be careful with this active ingredient, especially for products that are not rinsed off.
12 - Natural dyes
Natural pigments can be used to make homemade make-up products. They can be mixed together to create unique colours! Unlike chemical dyes, pigments of mineral or plant origin are totally inert and have no negative impact on health or the environment. They keep for a very long time as long as they are protected from humidity.
- Red dyes: hibiscus powder, beetroot powder, red oxide, red clay
- Yellow dyes: turmeric, yellow oxide, yellow clay
- Black dyes: vegetable charcoal, black oxide
- White dyes: zinc oxide, white oxide, white clay
- Brown dyes: brown oxide, cocoa powder
13 - Aloe vera gel and its cousin, flaxseed gel
Aloe vera is the Swiss army knife of cosmetics, as it meets all the skin's needs.
Properties: moisturising, soothing, softening, healing, anti-inflammatory. It contains no fewer than 75 active molecules. It's a miracle ingredient with 1001 properties.
Uses: you can use this pure gel directly on the skin or use it as an ingredient in homemade cosmetic recipes. In this case, it will form part of the aqueous phase of the product.
How do I harvest my own aloe vera gel?
Take an aloe vera leaf directly from the plant, choosing one that is plump and in good condition. Start by placing it vertically in a container. A yellow juice will flow from the leaf - this is the plant's juice, known for its powerful laxative action. Once the juice has completely run off, cut the 'teeth' of the leaf by taking two strips along the leaf. Then remove the skin, leaving only the pulp. Rinse the pulp in a bowl of cold water. Strain the pulp using a small skimmer. Cut it into small pieces and filter again, pressing with a fork. The juice that comes out is pure aloe vera gel separated from its pulp. You can store this juice for a few days in a clean, disinfected container in the fridge.
Linseed gel is the local cousin of aloe vera gel. It is obtained from flax seeds, which are naturally rich in mucilage. These molecules swell on contact with water to form a viscous gel. It can be used on both hair and skin to moisturise and repair. It pampers the hair to help detangle, but also sheathes and moisturises.
14 - Lime water
Uses: It's mainly used to prepare liniment oléocalcaire, the product that mums love for cleaning and protecting baby's bottom. It is also used as a make-up remover, with its soft, creamy texture. It is mixed in equal parts with vegetable oil, usually olive oil. Once the two ingredients are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs to form a thick milk.
Caution: limewater should not be used undiluted on the skin, as it is very irritating.
15 - Natural preservatives
The aim of preservatives is to protect your cosmetics from potential damage caused by the presence of germs (bacteria, mould, fungi) and the rancidity of fats. The most sensitive products are generally cosmetics with an aqueous phase, i.e. containing water, hydrolat or aloe vera gel. It is in this environment that bacteria, as well as moulds and yeasts, proliferate most. If you're making a cosmetic product in large quantities, or if you want to use it over a long period of time, it's best to include a preservative in its composition. Here are the two substances I recommend.
For all products containing an aqueous phase, i.e. lotions, creams, shower gels, shampoos, etc.
It prevents the proliferation of bacteria and mould.
- Dosage: 0.6%.
- Shelf life of the final product: approximately 1 month
Vitamin E
For all products containing a fatty phase, i.e. serum, balm, butter, lipstick, emulsions, etc.
It protects fatty and oily substances from oxidation, i.e. from going rancid.
- Dosage: 0.2% (beyond this, vitamin E becomes an anti-ageing active ingredient)
- Shelf life of the final product: approximately 6 months
Note: vitamin E alone is not effective for preserving products containing an aqueous phase, as it has no effect on bacterial proliferation.