Fat, vegetable oil or oily maceration?

Oil is the name given to a fatty substance in a liquid state at room temperature, while the term "fat" refers to fatty substances in a semi-liquid to solid state (especially butter and lard).

Most vegetable oils and fats come from oil plants (nuts, seeds or fruits containing lipids), with the exception of a few such as evening primrose or borage oil.

Do not confuse vegetable oil (from a plant) with mineral oil (from petroleum: paraffin, silicone) and animal oil (such as cod liver oil or whale oil).

Although mineral oils are widely used by the cosmetics industry (usually under the name paraffinum liquidum or petrolatum liquidum) because they are very cheap, they do not offer the benefits of unrefined, cold-pressed vegetable oils.

Moreover, their environmental impact is not the same!

This is why the choice of vegetable oil requires the greatest vigilance, since it affects the health of your body, your skin and your planet!

Manufacturing methods

By hydraulic press 

Dried fruits are cold-pressed to obtain a virgin vegetable oil of excellent quality.

The oils obtained are labelled "first cold pressed": a preferred choice for a healthy diet and a process that respects nature.

Mechanical pressing 

The seeds are crushed and gently heated.

We obtain a pure oil, free of any foreign matter, which preserves the nutritional qualities of the seed. This is the most widely used method.

By centrifugation (for oleaginous fruits)

The oil is separated from the fruit flesh (almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts).

By solvent extraction

Hexane (petroleum solvent) is used to degrease the crushed seed residue.

Distillation is then used to remove the solvent and obtain the oil.

Although this method is the cheapest (because it allows a much larger quantity of oil to be obtained), it is the least healthy, as solvent residues are very likely to be found in the oil obtained.

Clarification: Manufacturers are not obliged to mention the extraction method.

Therefore, the absence of the mention "solvent extraction" is ultimately an indicator of this method of production.

Favours cold extraction and virgin vegetable oils

It is advisable to favour the most respectful extraction of raw materials: cold extraction.

Furthermore, by choosing a virgin vegetable oil, you can be sure that you are using an oil that meets the strict criteria laid down by the regulations:

• Production by mechanical means (without the use of solvents) with cold extraction (temperature below 40°C).
• Clarification of the oil by decantation and filtration (physical means): to eliminate moisture, suspended particles, wax, etc.
• Exclusion of any refining process.

In order to guarantee the quality of the raw material used, seed and nut oils of organic origin and/or from a reliable farm are used.

Selection criteria

Depending on your state of health and the use you wish to make of the vegetable oil: nutritional, cosmetic or in synergy with aromatherapy, other concepts must be taken into account:

The source

The place of cultivation is often different from the place of production.

It is therefore advisable to check the true origin of the products grown.

For example, the avocado may be grown in Kenya, but the oil press is French.

The list of ingredients and their distribution

Especially when it comes to a cocktail of oils.

Example: "Omega 3": Virgin rapeseed oil (50%), sesame (25%), walnuts (5%), hemp (5%).

The nutritional composition

In particular, the levels of vitamin E and fatty acids (saturated, monounsaturated, polyunsaturated).

Use tips

Some oils cannot be heated.

This is particularly the case with the "omega-3" blend mentioned above and all the so-called "unsaturated" oils.

They are mainly used to flavour salads and cold dishes.

Improper use of a vegetable oil can make it toxic (for example, linseed oil should not be heated).

Possible mention of allergenic products

Example: Nuts.

The smell, appearance and taste of the oil must be characteristic.

They must be characteristic.

Do not use a vegetable oil with a rancid or suspicious odour.

Example: olive oil is yellow or green (depending on its origin) and has a fruity smell and taste.

Unsaponifiable compounds

This is the non-fatty, water-insoluble deposit left by vegetable oil and present in small amounts in fat.

Depending on its proportion in the fatty substance, it may be particularly suitable for cosmetic use.

The nature of vegetable oil drying

Drying oils (e.g. linseed and camelina) form a solid film on contact with air.

They are not recommended for massage or cosmetic use above a percentage of 5%.

In this case, semi-drying (safflower, calophyllum, sesame, grapeseed) or non-drying (sweet almond, olive) oils are preferred.

Also, the more an oil dries, the less it retains (it oxidises more quickly).

You can check the iodine index of the oil: the higher it is, the more oxidisable it is.